If you REALLY want to take good care of your car, you will avoid all quicky lube places and you will become much more familiar with what is needed in order to maintain the car properly. Training tends to be very brief, supervision tends to be minimal, and the push to move cars out of the shop very rapidly constitute “the perfect storm” for mistakes.Īll too often, we get very sad tales in this forum about quick lube joints that have ruined someone’s (pick one or more) engine/transmission/brake hydraulic system/cooling system/differential by using the wrong fluid, or not actually refilling after draining fluid, or not properly tightening the oil drain plug or the oil filter, or… Perhaps their conventional oil is not the best choice for your VW.Īll of that being said, the best reason to avoid quicky lube places is because of the much-higher-than-usual incidence of screw-ups at these places. Due to the much longer oil change intervals in Europe, a more stringent specification is called for, and not all US-marketed oils comply with that spec. As to the oil, while yours may only call for “conventional”, rather than synthetic oil, it is also possible that the conventional oil at this place may not comply with the stringent oil specification for VWs. While the guys at the quicky lube may theoretically been trying to oversell services, a prudent car owner will change his coolant every 3 years/30k miles. I agree with both oblivion and mleich, and I agree partially with Chase.
If I was forced to, I’d watch them closely, too.
I do all mine myself, but if I couldn’t due to health, being on a trip, or whatever, I’d do what I just outlined. I’d rather pay a dealer, but preferably, I’d go with my trusted local mechanic for all those repairs. Now, having said all that, I wouldn’t use one of those places unless I absolutely had to. Their recommendations are just that…recommendations. If you tell them just to change the oil, with what you want, and they don’t do it, then you can call them out. There has been debate after debate on here about the whole synthetic versus dino oil thing, and wildly differing opinions, none of which are wrong. If your motor has a turbo, then synthetic is really the only way to go due to the heat produced in the turbo itself, which will boil when you shut the motor down, eventually blocking the oil-ways. Can they run just fine on dino oil? Most can, sure.
Many do require synthetic (according to the book). I live in South Texas, so it puts up with a lot of heat, too.Īs for oil, he’s right. I think I’ve added about 1 cup to my '01 VW, and it’s still on the original fluid after over 120K miles. Just make sure the level is OK, but if you have to add it, then there’s a leak somewhere, which will require maintenance, and then you’ll be putting some new fluid in it at least, anyway. If you want to be prudent, and change it anyway, I’d do it somewhere at the 100K mark, but even then, if it’s still looking OK, it should be just fine. There’s really no reason to replace the VW coolant at 20, 40 or even 50K if there are no leaks, and the color hasn’t changed (other makes may be different). I’d have to disagree with mleich here (and your quickie change place) on the coolant thing. Anything more complex goes to an independent or the dealer.
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Monro has always done a good job with mufflers and oil changes for me, plus they honor their lifetime warranty on mufflers no questions asked (make sure you keep your original receipt). That said, I would not take my cars to the “Valve” or “Jiffy” places. Being wrong and lying are not the same thing. Many if not all new VW’s DO require synthetic oil. Not the case at all unless you like buying a new car every 3 years. Many people believe that car companies (like VW and Honda in my experience) skimp on the maintenance schedules to give people (like you and me) a false sense that their cars are better built because they do not require maintenance.
MOST peoples’ habits actually fall into the “severe” category. “Scheduled Maintenance Guidelines” are written for both “standard” and “severe” driving. If you are going to sell the car when it reaches 40k, then there is no reason to change the coolant.
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You should change the coolant every 30k no matter what the manual tells you–if you want your car to last as long as possible.
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